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Whenever curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.